Some justly deserved regional pride
Pat Ernst Dugan
June 2, 2005
Have you ever pondered the word "upstate"?

Last weekend, my forever frustration with that word reappeared. I traveled with a colleague to visit Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture near Tarrytown, N.Y., for a look-see. As we introduced ourselves to the group of food professionals from New York City with whom we were going to brunch, I heard the word "upstate" used as a way of explaining where Corning and Rochester were located.

Perhaps New York City is the center of the universe for the recently declared population of 8 million-plus residents, but them's were fightin' words to me.

Basically, it would appear that any city in New York state located north, east, or west of New York City is included in the definition of "upstate." Only Sunday an Associated Press article about "The Language of Baklava," referred to author Diana Abu-Jaber's "uncle's back yard in upstate New York" - why not just say Syracuse?

Have these folks never driven near our apple farms blooming with fragrant spring-time blossoms, our vineyards whose grapes travel to "downstate" wineries, our bright strawberry fields, our myriad of maple trees producing maple syrup for all, our not-farm-raised-trout streams, our artisan cheese and water producers, our buckwheat mills? We are not just "upstate." Our area is beautifully unique, and we should take pride in our differences and food finds.

I usually describe the region where I live as the Finger Lakes Area but recently wondered whether the "Lakes District" would be more inclusive and enticing, even for residents of Northern Pennsylvania. We could tout "the lakes district of Western New York or Northern Pennsylvania." You decide!

What we all can do is learn a little more about the history, wineries, food producers and restaurants in our area and do a lot of boasting.

Simply amazing, wonderfully elegant and comfortingly delicious are descriptor words that come to mind after visiting the "new" old town of Aurora, and the refurbished Aurora Inn. Situated on Cayuga Lake, the town and the inn, as well as Wells College, are undergoing amazing changes.

Built in 1833 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Aurora Inn was extensively refurbished and reopened two years ago. The inspiration for change was an alumnus of Wells, Pleasant T. Rowland. Pleasant dreams big and has partnered with Wells and Mackenzie-Childs to grow this sleepy little "village of constant dawn," stemming from a strong sense of loyalty to Wells and an influx of money earned from her American Girl dolls and books.

Whether you drive to visit Mackenzie-Childs estate-headquarters and then to dinner at the Aurora Inn or whether you decide to stay over at the inn, you will not be disappointed with the adventure.

Mackenzie-Childs, (3260 State Route 90) offers studio tours, unique retail including fanciful, hand-made ceramics, enamelware and furniture, and farm acreage with unusual cattle, colorful chickens with their Gothic Revival Chicken Palace. Call ahead for high tea times (800/640-0546) and be sure to check out the restroom ceilings. (Guys, perhaps the Wells College Golf Course, designed in part by Robert Trent Jones, is more to your liking than the shopping?)

The Aurora Inn Restaurant offers casually elegant surroundings, waterfront views and a menu focusing on American country fare prepared by experienced chefs. The salad offerings included local goat cheese served warm with wild mushroom tart on greens; a spinach salad with New York state sharp cheddar and maple vinaigrette; and a poached pear-blue-cheese salad choice. Our party happily allowed the food professional's fancy by letting me taste each.

Most of our party chose the traditional pot roast served with roasted vegetables - moist, most flavorful and a daring menu offering by its simplicity. The pan-seared sea scallops were perfectly prepared and served with citrus butter, creamy risotto and asparagus. Lamb Osso Bucco was brightened with a rich hunter sauce, accompanied by a sweet potato bacon barley side.

View the menu online at www.aurora-inn.com and do book dinner reservations ahead by calling 866/364-8808.

The Aurora Inn describes their location as "centrally located in the heart of New York's Finger Lakes Region." Amen!

Pat Ernst Dugan, a culinary consultant, teacher and personal chef, is the owner of Chez Pat in Corning. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.