Steak primer: aging, cuts and preparation
Pat Ernst Dugan
June 30, 2005
"Keep it simple, sweetie" is my rule of thumb when it comes to grilling steak.

Fourth of July is just around the corner and although I am not much of a steak eater, I have been plotting and planning for the great celebration day meal of America's independence. What steak is in my grilling future?

Plotting and planning is a low-calorie activity that keeps me away from the kitchen and happy for hours reading cooking magazines, cookbooks, talking to grilling experts, even imaging flavors as I drive.

The beauty of not eating steak very often is that when I do I am ready for a very good steak. The other bonus is that good quality steaks easily stand alone with their robust juicy buttery tenderness and do not require lengthy preparation or time-consuming techniques.

Aging ways
Dry-aging steaks breaks down fibers, decreases moisture content, thereby creating a more tender and flavorful steak, described by experts as nutty or buttery. Because this process takes time and there is a yield loss to the processor, dry-aged steaks are more expensive than unaged beef. Specialty butcher shops are the place to call.

Some grocery stores offer wet-aged steaks, packaged in Cryovac sealed bags. The texture of the beef is improved, there is no loss in yield, but the flavors do not develop as in dry-aging.

Porterhouse vs. T-bone
Porterhouse steak and T-bone steak are immediately recognizable because of the T-shaped bone that divides the two portions - the tenderloin and the top loin. But did you know that porterhouse steaks are so called because of the long-ago inns where they were first served with porter, ale and beer?

These two steaks are very similar, only varying in the size of the tenderloin portion. Porterhouse steak has a larger portion of the tenderloin.

Strip steak is the top loin steak, usually boneless. Depending on the section of the country where you are eating or buying it, it can be labeled New York or Kansas City Strip. More likely than not, butchers cut strip steaks about 1-inch thick.

Ribeye or Delmonico is the new and the old name for the same well-marbled and very tender boneless steak from the rib section (versus the loin section). In the mid 1800's, Delmonico's Restaurant in New York City popularized this special steak.

Sirloin steak has a deep rich flavor, but not quite so buttery tender as the rest mentioned, and it is less expensive. According to the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, King Henry VIII enjoyed this cut so much that he dubbed it "Sir Loin." Chefs these days are particularly fond of tri-tip steaks. They are cut from the bottom of the sirloin, the leanest part of the sirloin, and have more robust flavor and cook quicker.

Rubs, marinades
Beyond brushing the steak with oil, sprinkling with salt and pepper as you grill and scattering with minced garden chives before serving, simple step-up options exist.

Dry rubs provide a speedy way to add intense flavor without the longer wait of wet marinades. Spice companies sell excellent ready-made rub combinations for beef, chicken or pork. Rub and wait only about 15 minutes before grilling. Or combine dry herbs from your spice cupboard such as basil, lemon pepper, onion powder, savory and sage. Prefer a spicier rub? Add cayenne pepper.

Citrus-based marinades are great for adding flavor to sirloin steak as well as coating the vegetables that accompany.

Whisk together:

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice.

1 teaspoon grated fresh lemon peel.

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh garlic.

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper.

Stir in 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil.

While grill is preheating, in a shallow bowl, brush steak on both sides with 2 tablespoons of dressing. Toss quartered red and yellow peppers with remaining 3 tablespoons. Grill steak. After 10 minutes, place peppers on grill. Steak and veggies should be finished at the same time.

Beef and blue cheese is a classic combination. Make a flavored butter by combining roasted garlic, softened butter, blue cheese and chopped fresh parsley. After grilling, spoon a tablespoon of the butter onto the hot grilled steak of your choice. Pair with potato salad. Yummy!

Take a clue from steakhouse menus and offer more value with vegetable sides. Saute fresh mushrooms with garlic, thyme and a little red wine. Consider sauteed fresh spinach with garlic and toasted walnuts. It's hard to believe something so quickly prepared could taste so wonderful!

Pat Ernst Dugan is a private chef, educator and food/recipe writer. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.