Peach season

The sign in front of the library read, “Dive into a book.” What cooling magical words to encourage summer reading! So I did.

Not getting caught up in Potter pandemonium, I chose “Epitaph for a Peach, Four Seasons On My Family Farm” by David Mas Masumoto (Harper San Francisco, 1995).
Obviously not a new book, but with peach season upon us, and the wonderful descriptor words on the cover, I was drawn in. Phrases like “lyrical,” “poet of farming and peaches,” “a peach of a book,” “a beautifully written book” almost underestimate the heartfelt struggles of Masumoto’s yearlong story of farming his family’s 80-acre organic crop of peaches and grapes.
Masumoto is the eloquent yet gentle “walk a mile in my shoes” voice of America’s small farmer today. A graduate of University of California at Berkley with a bachelor’s degree in sociology and UC Davis with a master’s in community development, Masumoto, now 48, continues to farm with his 80-year-old father who originally cleared this land in Del Rey, Calif.
Masumoto describes himself (www.masumoto.com) as author, farmer and father. His peaches are not as red and beautiful as today’s large supermarkets require, but tree-ripened, organic Sun Crest peaches. Masumoto declares, “Sun Crest tastes like a peach is supposed to.
“As with many of the older varieties, the flesh is so juicy that it oozes down your chin. The nectar explodes in your mouth and the fragrance enchants your nose, a natural perfume that can never be captured.”
Masumoto’s dilemma is every year to find a market for his peaches since they have little shelf-life. The good news for this year’s crop, which started harvest at the end of June, is they are available at Whole Foods Markets in the San Francisco area and Berkeley Bowl (an actual converted bowling alley) in Berkeley, Calif.
My own search for a good-tasting peach started on summer vacation in Olympia, Wash., when the sole Washington-state medium-sized yellow peach I purchased rang up for $1 — and its bitter taste made the experience all the more incredulous.
The next day, I searched out a farmers market in Lacey, Wash. Two young entrepreneurs with a booth selling a variety of local produce, including Walla Walla sweet onions, hand-picked my breakfast peach and proudly charged 50 cents. They were actually middlemen, buying from nearby farmers and reselling. They described this early peach variety as “rich” rather than sweet; the taste was better.
The solution to the home cook’s dilemma of underripe peaches can be several. Buy local peaches first and foremost. If you do buy underripe peaches and you have time — never refrigerated peaches (they turn mealy) — ripen them on the kitchen counter.
If you can’t wait, trying sprinkling them with raw sugar and grilling on a panini grill. On an outdoor grill, this could get messy, so use a piece of screening material that you can toss. Caramelized peaches like these can be served with pork and coconut-scented rice for a main course.
For dessert, serve grilled peaches with a scoop of vanilla ice cream stirred with candied ginger. (Check out this month’s Gourmet magazine for balsamic marinated peaches and the article on the Finger Lakes.)
Words like cling, free stone and semi-free stone describe the peach pit’s ability to come away from the flesh. If preparing a fresh fruit tart, you might want to ask for a free stone peach, so that the slices will be attractive.
Summer couscous salad can be a quick supper feast with the addition of ripe, peeled and diced fresh peaches. Simply boil water and pour over an equal portion of couscous in a large Pyrex bowl. Cover and let stand 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork. Add freshly squeezed lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir. Toss with diced red peppers, peaches, drained chickpeas and drained, crumbled feta cheese. Enhance with a fresh herb like chopped parsley, basil or cilantro. Enjoy!
At this moment of my travels, I am still searching for the ultimate unforgettable ripe and juicy breakfast peach. However, I am planning a peach crisp, with an oatmeal or shredded wheat topping, next chance I get to prepare a warm breakfast.

Pat Ernst Dugan, a culinary consultant, teacher and personal chef, is the owner of Chez Pat in Corning. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.