Pat DuganPat Ernst Dugan loves to cook, eat, travel and learn about regional foods. She's been doing it for 18 years.

Dugan, of Corning, shares her culinary knowledge with readers in a weekly food column. "Foodly Yours" covers cooking, dining and Finger Lakes foods, from locally grown produce, cooking gadgets and tools to a a new recipe each week, proposed by Dugan to be "quick-fix, limited ingredient and realistic."
 
 

British Columbia town credited with supersweet treat
Pat Ernst Dugan
August 11, 2005

Online
To see Joyce Hardcastle’s award-winning recipe for Nanaimo Bars, go to www.tourism.nanaimo.bc.ca/, click on “Hungry?” in the box on left of the page, scroll down on the page.

Elmira has its renowned author and humorist Mark Twain.

Corning has cookbook authors Cornelius O’Donnell and Emily Luchetti.

Naples, N.Y., has its grape pies.

And Nanaimo, British Columbia, has its share of the famous, too: native and jazz pianist Diana Krall and Nanaimo Bars.

Surprising in today’s world of supercommunications is the fact that not everyone relates Mark Twain to Elmira or to food. Or that friend Cornelius O’Donnell’s recipe for Chicken Walnut Pate is not a staple at every cocktail party on the planet. Or that Emily Luchetti, author of “Passion for Desserts” (Chronicle, 2003), is not associated with Corning after she graduated from West High School (nee Emily Underwood). Or that even with the article about Monica’s Pies in The New York Times, that grape pies in Naples are a surprise to incoming tourists.

A story about regional curiosities began to perk as we visited Nanaimo, British Columbia, last week. The pleasant details of a meeting with Corning resident Jim Durham (now residing in Woolwich, Maine) and Diana Krall some years ago came to mind.

Some years ago, Jim drove Diana from the Elmira-Corning Regional Airport for her gig at the Corning Glass Center sponsored by the Civic Music Association. The evening performance proved Diana a rising star with her distinctive voice and piano virtuosity.

Connections count for food sleuths! I began to wonder as we played Diana “Peel Me a Grape” selection from her “Love Scenes” CD if she had ever eaten her hometown’s famous triple-decker, supersweet chocolate squares, named Nanaimo Bars. The song lyric repeated, “I’m hungry, peel me a grape.” Very sensible snack, Diana!

Since I was right here in the city of origin, which translates into “meeting place,” I had to search for the best Nanaimo Bar. A series of inquiries directed me to Lila’s Specialty Bake Shop on Commercial Street in downtown Nanaimo, where bakery clerk Lindsey Ravenborg revealed relevant details about the origin of Nanaimo Bars.

“Lila’s are the best Nanaimo Bars I have ever eaten,” exclaimed Lindsey, the best salesperson Lila or Nanaimo Bars ever had.

Recipes abound for Nanaimo Bars in national cookbooks, but Lindsey says that Lila’s recipe remains secret. I must admit that after eating Lila’s bar and another at a local grower’s market, hers was better, but I had had my fill for quite a while.

Lindsey also added that grocery stores sell mixes for these famous sweet treats. Indeed, I found Robin Hood mixes available in regular and mint-flavored Nanaimo Bar versions. For availability in the United States, call parent company Smucker Foods of Canada, 800/767-4466.

The origin of Nanaimo Bars is uncertain. I liked this version best: Wives of coal miners packed care packages for their loved ones as treats throughout the hardworking dusty days in the mines. They apparently wrapped them individually (as they are sold today). Because they were so appreciated by Nanaimo miners, families sent them back to mining families in Scotland, where they also were enjoyed. Soon, folks began referring to them as the bars from Nanaimo or as they came to be known, Nanaimo Bars.

 

  • Curious about the Mark Twain connection and food? Not sure you want to prepare this, but do read the recipe to the end. Wonder where he ate this in his travels ...

    New England Apple Pie or A Recipe for Vengeance
    From “A Tramp Abroad,” Mark Twain, 1879.

    “To make this excellent breakfast dish, proceed as follows: Take a sufficiency of water and a sufficiency of flour, and construct a bullet-proof dough. Work this into the form of a disk, with the edges turned up some three-fourths of an inch. Toughen and kiln-dry it a couple of days in a mild but unvarying temperature. Construct a cover for this redoubt in the same way and of the same material. Fill with stewed dried apples; aggravate with cloves, lemon-peel, and slabs of citron; add two portions of New Orleans sugar, then solder on the lid and set in a safe place till it petrifies. Serve cold at breakfast and invite your enemy.”

  • Pat Ernst Dugan, a culinary consultant, teacher and personal chef, is the owner of Chez Pat in Corning. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.

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