This question must be handled gingerly

Pat Ernst Dugan
August 18, 2005

Dear Spice Guru Pat,

I find myself in a pickle. Do I or do I not peel fresh ginger ... that is my question! Also when I buy fresh ginger, it molds in my refrigerator vegetable drawer. How do I properly store it so that I can use as I need? And in a pinch, how do I substitute candied or powdered ginger for fresh? What is crystallized ginger? I have seen people eating this like candy, should I? Guide me through the world of gnarly ginger roots, powders and pieces.

- Sincere Spice Girl

Dear Fellow Ginger Freak,

You have come to the right place! I too have a love affair going with all members of the ginger family. Ginger is not an obscure ingredient. Centuries ago, ginger appeared on dinner tables as we use salt and pepper today.

I dare say that powdered ginger is found in all supermarkets today. Use in baked goods, such as pound cakes, scones, cookies and gingerbreads. It is not a good substitute for fresh in stir-fries, curries and ginger ales.

I recently surveyed the grocery store ginger ale aisle. To my surprise, most ginger ales, including Canada Dry and Schweppes, contain carbonated water, sugar, citric acid and natural flavors - no mention of ginger. Then I discovered two brands called ginger beer, one with the same ingredients as the ginger ales but the other from the Great Jamaican Ginger Beer Co. detailed dry ginger root extract. Check for online recipes to make ginger ale at home, using ginger root, a small amount of yeast, lemon juice, sugar and water.

Today, even the historically revered Vernor's Ginger Ale lists natural flavors (a chemical substitute, but still natural) in lieu of ginger and caramel color for the "golden" aged extract that James Vernor discovered by accident.

In 1862, as a 19-year-old in Detroit, Vernor started playing around with ginger, adding vanilla, sugar and water. Leaving Detroit to fight in the Civil War, he saved the mixture in an old oak cask. Four years later, he opened it to find a refreshing drink, which he served in his drug store. Eventually, Vernor and his son started bottling the Vernor brand, today owned by Cadbury and available in select stores.

Detroit natives lovingly recall drinking Vernor's Ginger Ale with chocolate ice cream as the ultimate summer evening treat. Something akin to a root beer float, made with vanilla ice cream, is referred to as a Boston cooler.

Hot ginger tea has been touted as a remedy for upset stomach. Simply steep fresh julienned ginger root in boiling water. Sip and have a calming moment!

Back to the question about peeling ... if you find pink-tipped baby ginger or spring ginger, sometimes labeled new or young, there is no need to peel. The skin is tender. Young ginger is juicy, milder than common grocery store ginger root, and I have found this only in an Asian grocery store. (Galangal, a ginger root cousin found in many trendy Thai recipes today, has a stronger, more pungent flavor.)

Candied or crystallized ginger is either found in slices, dices or pieces. Some are thicker slices than others, such as the Australian Candied Ginger sold at Williams-Sonoma. Some aficionados prefer the energy boost and sweetness of what is essentially a ginger candy. Add diced candied ginger to your favorite banana bread recipe and enjoy the difference.

A news-flash e-mail several months ago alerted me to Altoids new ginger flavor, a cool on-the-run sweet treat with fewer calories.

I've saved the best for last, pickled ginger. Sold as a condiment with sushi, pickled ginger has so many more flavor- boosting uses. Combine grated carrot with minced pickled ginger and cream cheese for a wonderful open-face tea or graceful luncheon sandwich.

Try a Ginger Zing Salmon Roll-up. Serve as hors d'oeuvres for your next porch party. Mix chopped pickled ginger, red onion, small can of Bumble Bee prime pink salmon and cream cheese. Spread mixture on a red or green tortilla. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate. When needed, slice with serrated knife and pierce with a pretty pick. Arrange on colorful plate.

Lastly, to preserve fresh ginger root, slice and store in a glass jar filled with sherry and refrigerate. Alternately, peel and freeze in a plastic freezer bag. Grate as needed with micro-plane or ginger grater (sold in Asian markets or kitchen stores).

For the love of ginger,

Chef Pat


Pat Ernst Dugan, a culinary consultant, teacher and personal chef, is the owner of Chez Pat in Corning. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.

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