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Pat Ernst Dugan loves to cook, eat, travel and learn about regional foods.
She's been doing it for 18 years.
Dugan, of Corning, shares her culinary knowledge with readers in a weekly
food column. "Foodly Yours" covers cooking, dining and Finger Lakes
foods, from locally grown produce, cooking gadgets and tools to a a new
recipe each week, proposed by Dugan to be "quick-fix, limited ingredient and
realistic."
Add these to your
culinary pairings: salmon, pistachios
Pat Ernst Dugan
September 8, 2005
Romeo and Juliet, Abbott and Costello, Rogers and Hammerstein, Gilbert and
Sullivan, Frankie and Annette, Hillary and Bill, Sonny and Cher. In a memory
game where the first name in each of these pairs is given, the second name
most usually follows.
Emerging from the culinary world are these famous unions: Dean & DeLuca,
A&P, Lea & Perrins, A&W, Ben & Jerry.
Obviously, perfect pairings are not always set in stone, evolving to succeed
and grow.
Dean & DeLuca, a high-end retailer of gourmet and specialty foods,
previously with one New York City location, now sells via catalog, Internet
and is one-third owned by Itochu Corp. of Japan. New stores are planned for
Japan and China.
Chunky Monkey, Ben & Jerry’s banana ice cream with chocolate chunks and
walnuts, is based on the wonderful flavor combination of chocolate and
bananas. Along with Cherry Garcia’s unusual merging of cherries and
chocolate, both are in the top 10 of the company’s most popular ice cream
flavors.
So do we always have to eat ham with eggs, fish with chips, peanut butter
with jelly, meat and potatoes, peaches and cream? Perhaps it’s time to start
new traditions.
Consider this colorful plate combination: the rich red of Alaskan wild
salmon and the lime green of California shelled, roasted and salted
pistachios. Not quite the ring of oil and vinegar, but it’s an extra
special, twinkly pairing, especially when the pistachios are churned into a
compound butter that is almost worth walking over hot coals for. The bonus
is a fast and flavorful, hot and healthy entree suitable for a weekday
supper or worthy of company fare.
Compound butters have long been a favorite of restaurant chefs. Now the
promise for home cooks is the ease of creating these flavored butters at
home and storing them in the refrigerator or freezer for the grilling or
broiling season.
Combos you may know
Biscuits warm from the oven can be served with a simple combination of
stirred soft butter and honey. Finely chopped garlic is merged with butter
for the famous spaghetti dinner partner of garlic bread.
In recent years, beef has been delightfully paired with blue cheese, a
superstar combination whether served in a sauce over pan-sauteed beef
tenderloin steaks or topped with Gorgonzola butter immediately after
removing from the saute pan or grill. The butter melts, leaving the beef
topped with promising new-style flavors.
Gorgonzola butter
To prepare, roast 2 heads of garlic, drizzled with olive oil in a foil
packet in a 350-degree oven for an hour. While garlic is roasting, place a
1/2 cup butter (1 stick) in a small bowl with 2 ounces of Gorgonzola cheese
crumbled.
Remove garlic from oven, cool. Squeeze garlic cloves into the softened
butter and blue cheese. Add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley or chives and stir
to combine. Refrigerate.
When grilled burgers or special-occasion beefsteaks are served, simply top
with 1 tablespoon of this goof-proof nippy butter.
Chefs place compound butter mixtures on sheets of plastic wrap and form it
into a log by rolling until the log measures about 1 inch in diameter. These
are then frozen, to be sliced and thawed as needed.
Roast Salmon and Pistachio Butter
Pistachio Butter ingredients:
2/3 cup shelled, salted pistachios
1/2 cup butter, softened
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 teaspoons peeled, grated ginger root
Preparation: Process pistachios until coarsely chopped. Place in bowl with
butter, chives, lemon juice and ginger root. Combine well. Refrigerate or
roll into a log and freeze.
Roast Salmon ingredients:
8 5-ounce pieces King salmon fillets
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Preparation: Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Heat olive oil in a heavy skillet
over medium high heat. Brown salmon fillets, on nonskin side, four at a
time, for about 2 minutes.
Place salmon, skin side down, in a shallow baking pan. Roast 4-5 minutes.
Remove from oven, sprinkle with salt and pepper, top with 1 tablespoon
pistachio butter and place on serving dish or individual plates..
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