Whatever your budget, whatever age category you are shopping for, whatever shape pleases you, whatever time you have to devote to the gift shopping, chocolate is the answer.

Chocolate gifts never go out of style. This year, the "hot" chocolate gift pleasures center around the current dark chocolate revolution.

Chocolate makers are finding new reasons for us to eat chocolate. They are funding studies into the potential heart-health benefits of chocolate. These benefits are attributed to flavonoids, the same group of phytochemicals found in tea and red wine. The trouble is, flavanols make chocolate taste bitter and confectioners have spent years trying to find ways to remove the bitter flavor. As a result, much of the chocolate on today's store shelves contain little.

In addition, you can't ignore chocolate's calories (about 140 per ounce), plus the additions of sugar, butter, nuts, etc. that make most chocolate treats an extra special adventure.

So if it's not a health food, then what are the other good reasons for eating and giving chocolate? Today's chocolate is sophisticated with a new category called prestige and gourmet chocolates. They are grown-up candy bars with rich velvety taste, immediately recognizable aroma, unique shapes, way-cool packaging that provide affordable, unforgettable "experiences." They are smaller, contain exotic ingredients and cost more per ounce. Bottom line: today's chocolates taste great and look great and are a conversation starter or great finish to a meal.

Endangered Species Chocolate Company (www.chocolatebar.com) sells Bug Bites and Chimp Mints, which are individually wrapped milk chocolate or dark chocolate pieces with collectable trading cards. They are a socially responsible company selling chocolates that are "fair trade shade-grown products." The "fair trade" label refers to compliance with certain criteria for wages and labor law. (See www.fairtrade.net/ for further explanation of Fair Trade labeling.) "Shade grown" refers to cultivation practices where pesticide use and clear-cutting of forests is minimized. (See www.groundsforchange.com/learn/shadegrown.php.) The company also donates 10 percent of their profits to organizations involved in the "conservation of species and their habitat."

The red brightly colored ladybug box ($11.95) filled with 20 dark chocolate Bug Bites is especially appropriate for Christmas. Some Endangered Species chocolates are available online or locally at Wegmans, Hunt Country Vineyards and Greenstar Market in Ithaca.

Perhaps after reading Harry Potter, someone in your family would appreciate Chocolate Frogs for Christmas. Chocolate apparently has special properties as an antidote for the chilling effect produced by contact with nasty forms of black magic. Chocolate Frogs sold online at www.frogstore.com made by German manufacturer Hagensborg offer a "big hug and a giggle," a mini box of "Kiss Me" Frog Truffles (milk chocolate) that cost $3.50, plus shipping and handling, of course.

Many liberties are taken with the chocolate word "truffles." Strictly defined, truffles are chocolate candies that have soft chocolate centers and are dusted with cocoa. Most other filled chocolates are better called "bonbons."

Small batch chocolatiers are gaining market share and fame while two famous large chocolate companies have been acquired by still larger corporations. Godiva, the original trend-setting truffle maker and primo packager, has been "melted" into Campbell Soup Co. while Sharffenberger, the famed San Francisco vintner turned chocolatier who pioneered prestige chocolate containing high percentages of chocolate, has been recently "digested" by Hershey's.

The Williams-Sonoma catalog features handcrafted chocolates by master chocolatier Michael Recchiuti. Chuck Williams' favorite are the Recchiuti hand-rolled truffles with silken ganache centers made from the finest bittersweet El Rey Venezuelan and Guittard Madagascar chocolates, premium butter and extra-rich cream, rolled and tossed in Pernigotti cocoa powder. One-half pound of these tempting masterpieces cost $39 (about $5 per ounce) plus shipping and handling. "Eat slowly and savor the international moment", might read the appropriate gift tag.

For the fashion maven who also likes chocolate, Chocolate Handbags - "where chocolate meets fashion" - are a seasonal must and are available from www.chocochocohouse.com. The most fun in chocolate yet, these handbags pack mighty flavors in their 1/2-ounce size. Order the Choco's Choice, a handbag box assortment of the Spring Romance (almond and vanilla scented interior), the Mayan (milk chocolate with a hint of chili pepper), the Dark Classic (dark chocolate with dark chocolate ganache), the Grand Marnier (dark chocolate and orange), the Champagne and the Cappuccino (milk chocolate with ganache steeped in roasted coffee beans) or order 12 bags of a single flavor. Handbags are pictured and described delightfully. Twelve bags sell for $35.95 plus shipping and handling.

Dean and DeLuca (800/221-7714) offer a similar collection of 12 handbags with classic dark, rum, champagne and Grand Marnier flavors for $48.

Shopping for Christmas chocolate gifts is extremely pleasant, and possibly habit-forming. Remember, the clue to good chocolate is its ability to melt in your mouth. Keep trying and enjoy the journey.