Say the word gingerbread and it conjures up an aroma of sweet spices, a visual of dark molasses-tinged sweet cake or cookies and the festivities of the Christmas season.

Who among us has never tasted gingerbread cake with whipped cream; has never viewed and appreciated the fabulously inventive gingerbread house displays at Christmas; or has never tried their hand at cutting out gingerbread angels?

But, why do we call it ginger "bread," when it isn't bread at all?

Indeed, gingerbread has a curious history, one that can be celebrated by almost every nationality. Whether served as a soft cake, as dark squares of bread served with lemon sauce or added nuts and dried fruit or as crisp flat decorated cookies, my theory is that gingerbread is the result of the creativity of a myriad of cooks and available spices.

The story starts like this ... the Crusaders brought back intriguing new spices from the Middle East, ginger being one of many. Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and pepper were among the others.

In medieval England, gingerbread meant simply "preserved ginger," a corruption of the Old French gingebras. Ladies in these olden days presented rather hard, honey spice bread as a favor to knights going into battle or jousting at fairs. This treat soon gave its name to community get-togethers - gingerbread fairs.

French cooks developed a treat still available today called "pain d'epices" or spices cake. In 1571, these pain d'epices bakers formed their own professional guild, separate from other bakers and pastry chefs. Gingerbread fairs were held in Paris where monks sold gingerbread cutout-shaped pigs.

Today, the Italian city of Siena is famous for its Italian Panforte (literally meaning strong bread). This treat is a dense rich bread with "strong" spices, enriched with nuts and dried fruits, served in thin slices. The historic bustling city of Siena is a recommended visit if you go to Italy. Enhance your experience by relaxing with an espresso and a slice of Panforte while people-watching in the Piazza del Campo, regardless of the season.

The Grimm brothers, of course, made Germany famous for their gingerbread houses when they wrote the fairy tale about two children, Hansel and Gretel, who were abandoned in the woods by destitute parents and discovered a house make of gingerbread, cake and candies.

Fast forward to American traditions and regional variations, influenced by centuries of historical roots and traditions passed over from Europe? Is it time to try yet another gingerbread variation?

This year, perhaps, I can interest you in an edible centerpiece for your holiday table? The catalog ad that inspired my idea read, "don't jam your beautiful cupcakes onto a crowded plate." King Arthur Flour in their Baker's Catalogue offers a tiered cupcake stand perfect for my Gingerbread Cupcakes with Lemon Frosting. Cupcakes are not just for summer picnics. They offer an easy, serve-yourself, portable buffet dessert that not only tastes good but also looks festive.

Gingerbread Cupcakes with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Sometimes gingerbread can be too strong a flavor. The lemonade painted on the warm cakes and in the frosting does the trick. It softens the flavors while tickling the taste buds. This recipe yields a baker's dozen.

Dry ingredients:

1 3/4 cup all purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Wet ingredients:

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

5 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 cup molasses

1 large egg

1/2 cup very warm water

2 tablespoons frozen lemonade concentrate, thawed and divided

2 tablespoons butter, softened

2 ounces low-fat cream cheese, softened

Confectionery sugar

Zest of one lemon

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with festive papers, plus one Pyrex custard cup. Mix dry ingredients with a whisk. Beat brown sugar with butter until light and fluffy. Add molasses and egg, beating well to combine. Alternately with hot water and on low speed, add flour mixture to creamed mixture.

Scoop batter into muffin cups (about scant 1/4 cup). Bake about 18-20 minutes, removing custard cup about 5 minutes earlier. Test with a wooden pick for doneness. Meanwhile, beat butter, cream cheese and 1 tablespoon lemonade concentrate. Beat in confectionery sugar to desired consistency. Zest lemon and set aside.

After cupcakes have cooled in the pan about 10 minutes, remove and brush with 1 tablespoon lemonade concentrate. When putting on the icing, leave some gingerbread edges showing. Sprinkle with lemon zest and place in cupcake stand.