Pat Ernst Dugan loves to cook, eat, travel and learn about regional foods. She's been doing it for 18 years.

Dugan, of Corning, shares her culinary knowledge with readers in a weekly food column. "Foodly Yours" covers cooking, dining and Finger Lakes foods, from locally grown produce, cooking gadgets and tools to a a new recipe each week, proposed by Dugan to be "quick-fix, limited ingredient and realistic."

Figs: short, but sweet, season
Pat Ernst Dugan
February 16, 2006

An off-the-cuff remark by a well-respected cookbook editor has left me puzzled for years. He said, "There is nothing new in the world of food."

His point was that it is necessary for every aspiring cookbook writer to find a unique point of view about a food subject to get published. Perhaps so. I, however, remain constantly surprised by food partners that innovate, surprise and appetize. Dried fig pairings are a case in point.

Fresh figs are a fleeting, fragile commodity, available only three months of the year - July through September. Dried figs, available year-round, are one of the few fruits that are fully ripened and partially dried on their trees.

As the sweetest of all fruits with 55 percent sugar content, they are also rich in dietary fiber, and contain an abundance of essential minerals including potassium, iron and calcium. I know I feel much better after eating two fig bars.

Who could have foreseen the innovative changes in the Fig Newton world? With today's awareness of the importance of whole grains, Fig Newtons are baked with 100 percent whole grain flour. The third most popular cookie in the United States, Fig Newtons remain moist and sweet because its interior fig jam acts naturally to hold in moistness and freshness. That's why figs pair so well with whole grains in breads and baked desserts.

California, specifically Fresno and north in the San Joaquin Valley, is where 20 percent of the world's supply is grown. Here is a look at some of the varieties:

Calimyrna figs were previously called Smyrna figs, but were renamed by a proud California grower in honor of his new home in 1882. Calimyrna figs are amber-colored and nutlike in flavor.

Mission figs are so named for the missionary fathers who planted them from San Diego north to Sonoma, Calif. These figs are purplish in color and darken to a rich black when dried.

Kadota figs are most usually canned. Delicious childhood memories of my mom serving these on special occasions come to mind. They are thick-skinned, creamy-colored and practically seedless.

J.A. Vinson, professor of chemistry at the University of Scranton and a leader in a study of antioxidants in dried fruit, recently concluded that dried figs protect your heart.

"Figs can help you meet daily fruit and fiber recommendations and, like all dried fruits, provide a big dose of polyphenols, potent antioxidants that help prevent the formation of artery-clogging plaque," Vinson said.

Marie Simmons translated her passionate interest in figs into the book, "Fig Heaven" (William Morrow, 2004, $19.95). Marie creatively and inspiringly details 70 recipes for mouthwatering sandwiches, salads, main courses and, of course, desserts.

Marie pairs dried figs and cheese in a delightful open-face cheese sandwich, perfect for lunch or cut and served as appetizers. Cook 1ė cups of dried figs with 1 cup of water in a covered saucepan over low heat until almost all water has been absorbed - about 20 minutes. After slightly cooling, process figs. Spread toasted bread on one side with about 2 tablespoons of the fig jam. Top jam with about 1 ounce of Gruyere or Fontina cheese. Broil until melted, about 1 to 2 minutes.

In Marie's delicious fig world, salmon, chicken, pork and halibut pair with figs. She uses figs to make smoothies, jams, salads and even sorbets.

Fig Heaven is available through Valley Fig Growers Co-Operative (www.valleyfig.com) for nearly half the retail price with cash register receipt (through March 31, 2006) and UPC bar codes from two packages of any Blue Ribbon Orchard Choice or Sun-Maid figs.

Gorgonzola with Fig Sauce

In a recent cooking class on Easy and Elegant Italian Desserts, participants were surprised and pleased with the pairing of figs and blue cheese for dessert. This recipe is adapted from "La Dolce Vita" by Michele Scicolone (HarperCollins, 2000, $17)

Ingredients:

1 cup chopped dried Calimyrna figs, stems removed

1 cup water or 1 cup port wine

1/4 cup sugar (omit if using port)

3-inch strip lemon zest

4 thin slices Gorgonzola

Preparation:

Simmer figs, water and sugar (or port wine) and lemon zest in a small saucepan until liquid is almost reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes. Cool and discard lemon zest. Place the Gorgonzola on serving plates. Serve the fig sauce on the side.

Pat Ernst Dugan is a private chef, educator and food/recipe writer. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.