Salmon made the national news again this week. Breaking news on television and West Coast newspapers carried the story of the most severe restrictions in the history of California and Oregon's commercial salmon fishing industry being recommended by the Pacific Fishery Management Council. Ratification by the Commerce Department is expected by May 1.

Proposed restrictions include cutting the fishing season to just two weeks rather than the 150 days of previous seasons and severely the number of fish hooked.

The root of the problem lies in the environmental problems plaguing the Klamath River in Oregon. Because many river fish mingle in the ocean, including the Klamath salmon, fishery biologists conclude that the only way to protect future salmon is to limit all the salmon caught along this 700 miles of coastline.

Last year, 70,000 salmon swimming upstream to the Klamath River died. River waters were low and consequently too warm for salmon to live.

With the livelihood of so many fishermen at stake, the governors of both California and Oregon have asked the Bush administration to issue a disaster declaration.

What does all this mean to our dinner table? Wild fresh salmon is available on a seasonal basis from late May through September. The rest of the year, if we have not frozen our Alaskan Copper River salmon or Pacific coast salmon, we rely on fresh salmon from fish farms.

Farmed salmon's rough seas have also been under fire. These salmon are raised in ocean pens, some more crowded than others, some fed better food than others and some more environmentally friendly than others.

Experts tell us eating salmon still makes sense. It's packed with vitamins, minerals and nutrients, including protein, calcium and Omega-3 fatty acids — that fabulous fat that can protect against heart disease, improve inflammatory conditions and possibly reduce the risk of certain cancers. Besides, it tastes good.

My kitchen crystal ball tells me with decreased supply, there might be price increases in canned salmon. I am casting my net for canned salmon. My pantry always contains 15-ounce cans of red salmon and six-ounce cans of pink salmon.

Canned Salmon Pickled Ginger Roll-ups

Brightly colored tortillas and bright ginger flavors combine with canned pink salmon to create “can't eat just one” appetizer.

Ingredients:

6-ounce can pink salmon, drained

1/2 cup water chestnuts, finely diced

1/3 cup red onion, finely diced

3 tablespoons pickled ginger, finely chopped

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

1/2 of a 6.5-ounce Alouette garlic and herb cheese tub, room temperature

2 burrito-size tomato flavored tortillas, room temperature

Preparation:

In a medium size mixing bowl, break up salmon with fork. Toss salmon with water chestnuts, red onion, pickled ginger and lemon zest. Stir in herbed cheese. Spread mixture evenly onto tortillas. Roll tightly. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. To serve: cut with a serrated knife into slices and place on serving plate. Yields about 20 pieces. The cook gets to eat the not-so-pretty end pieces.

Updated Salmon Patties

Easter dinner usually yields leftover mashed potatoes. Combine them with canned red salmon and fresh ginger for a weeknight dinner.

Ingredients:

15-ounce can red salmon, drained, bones removed and coarsely flaked

1 cup mashed potato

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 cup onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated

1 large egg, beaten

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation:

In a large bowl, stir together salmon, mashed potato and lemon zest. Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in nonstick skillet and sauté onion until transparent, about 7 minutes. Add onion along with grated ginger to salmon mixture. Stir in beaten egg with a fork, adding salt and pepper. Form mixture into 8 patties. Heat 1-teaspoon olive oil in skillet over medium heat. Fry 4 patties until brown on each side, about 6 minutes total. Heat remaining oil and fry remaining patties.

Pat Ernst Dugan is a private chef, educator and food/recipe writer. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.