“Everything Old is New Again.” I think it's a song lyric but as I sleuthed the business of vodka recently, this phrase kept repeating.

The question asked was simply from what food is vodka made?

The question was raised because Will Rogers was the topic of conversation. Will took a trip to Russia in 1924 and remarked, “Nobody in the world knows what (vodka) is made of ...” Others joining in the discussion remarked that vodka was most certainly made from potatoes.

Fact No. 1

Truth be told, vodka's history is shrouded in mystery, conjecture and lawsuits. Best guesstimates declare that most likely the world's first vodkas were fermented from rye somewhere in Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Russia always pops into everyone's minds as the country of origin, but first written records referring to vodka were found in Poland in 1405. Today's popular Polish brand, Chopin Vodka, proudly prints “potato vodka” on its bottle along with a black-and-white rendering of Frederic Chopin, the famous Polish composer. Called a luxury potato vodka, each bottle is distilled from seven pounds of potatoes.

Indisputable is the Russian custom of beginning meals with a glass of vodka and slices of crusty bread. The Slavic word “voda” means water and seems the likely origin for the naming of this colorless, yet potent (on average 40 percent alcohol) liquor. Surprising is the fact that the powerfully large Smirnoff Vodka company, originally Russian, is now owned by British company Diageo. Not surprising is the fact the Smirnoff Vodka is the No. 1 best-selling premium distilled spirit in the world.

Fact No. 2

Vodka is distilled from fermented grain, which can be any starch/sugar-rich plant and is produced throughout the world. Rye- and wheat-based vodkas are considered superior. Ketel One, a wheat vodka from the Netherlands, is preferred by some who drink vodka neat (alone), poured directly from storage in the freezer.

Some vodkas are distilled from sorghum, corn, molasses, even grapes. Based in Chicago, 3 Vodka, a recent entry into the world of vodka, also has the star power of part owner, musician Jermaine Dupri, and claims to be the only manufacturer that distills soy.

Fact No. 3

Flavors sell. Was it Absolut, the Swedish vodka company that sells more than 40 percent of all imported vodkas in the United States, that started the fascination with flavors by introducing Citrus Vodka? Who can resist the flavors of Vanilla (USA's Skyy), Black Raspberry (Chicago's 3Vodka), Kiwi (42 Below, New Zealand), L'Orange (France's Grey Goose) or Strawberry (Russian Stoli)?

The “Everything Old is New Again” part: Production of vodka started small. The fermented liquid was heated in a pot (a pot still). Historically, small batches were a matter of practicality. To grow volume and cost efficiency, most large distillers today farm their products in giant column stills that operate continuously.

A handful of producers are going back to the small batch concept. Today, we refer to this type as “artisan-made.” Helpful in the world of absolute marketing phrases such as the “world's best tasting vodka” or the “vodka with the fewest impurities,” artisans are finding their niche with pure flavors and “no burn.” Hard-to-find brands such as corn-based Tito's Handmade Vodka (made by a Texas man named Burt Butler “Tito” Beveridge II) and Hangar One's Mandarin Blossom Vodka (California) steal the show as well as burden the billfold.

Versatile Vodka: Mrs. FixIt, Terri McGraw, author of “Pantry Power” (Meredith, 2005), suggests cleaning gold and gemstone jewelry by soaking it in vodka and scrubbing it with a toothbrush. She also adds that if company is coming and you've run out of bathroom cleaner, “pour some vodka into a spray bottle and shine chrome fixtures and mirrors.”

Uncle Bill's Marinade for London Broil

Ingredients:

1 cup Open Pit BBQ Sauce

1 cup vodka

3 pound beef chuck, London broil

Preparation:

Mix sauce and vodka. Place beef in glass dish. Coat with sauce. Marinate overnight. Grill.

Pat Ernst Dugan is a private chef, educator and food/recipe writer. E-mail her at foodlyyours@aol.com or send comments and questions to be forwarded to: Foodly Yours, Star-Gazette, Attn: Features Department, 201 Baldwin St., P.O. Box 285, Elmira, NY 14902.